The allure of transforming your hair color with a convenient box dye is undeniable. It’s affordable, readily available, and promises salon-worthy results from the comfort of your own home. However, the initial satisfaction can quickly turn into a hair coloring conundrum when you decide you want to go lighter. That’s when the question arises: Can you bleach over box dyed hair?
This article dives deep into the complexities of bleaching over box dyed hair, equipping you with the knowledge to make informed decisions and minimize potential damage. We’ll explore the potential risks, the science behind the process, and offer advice on how to proceed safely, whether you choose to DIY or seek professional help.
Understanding the Risks of Bleaching Over Box Dye
Bleaching hair, in general, is a chemical process that involves opening the hair cuticle and removing the natural pigment. When you add box dye to the equation, the situation becomes significantly more complex. Box dyes often contain metallic salts and other harsh chemicals that can react unpredictably with bleach, leading to a host of potential problems.
Unpredictable Color Results
One of the most common issues is achieving an uneven or unexpected color. Box dyes are formulated to deposit color, not necessarily to be lifted out. When bleach is applied, it can interact with the dye molecules in unpredictable ways, resulting in patchy, brassy, or even muddy tones. You might end up with orange, yellow, or even greenish hues that are far from your desired lightened shade.
Increased Hair Damage
Bleaching already-dyed hair significantly increases the risk of damage. The hair has already been chemically processed, making it more porous and vulnerable. The added stress of bleach can lead to dryness, breakage, split ends, and a generally weakened hair structure. In severe cases, the hair can become gummy, elastic, and even melt or break off entirely.
Potential Chemical Reactions
Some box dyes contain metallic salts, which can react violently with bleach. This reaction can generate excessive heat, causing severe damage to the hair and scalp. In extreme cases, it can even lead to chemical burns. While not all box dyes contain metallic salts, it’s often difficult to know for sure, making it a significant risk.
The Science Behind Bleaching and Hair Dye
To understand the risks, it’s essential to grasp the science behind how bleaching and hair dye interact with your hair. Hair is composed of three main layers: the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The cuticle is the outermost layer, acting as a protective shield. The cortex is the middle layer, containing the pigment that gives your hair its natural color. The medulla is the innermost layer, present in some but not all hair types.
How Bleach Works
Bleach works by oxidizing the melanin in the hair’s cortex. This process breaks down the pigment molecules, lightening the hair. The strength of the bleach and the length of time it’s left on determine the degree of lightening.
How Hair Dye Works
Hair dye works differently depending on whether it’s a permanent, semi-permanent, or demi-permanent formula. Permanent dyes penetrate the hair cuticle and deposit color molecules in the cortex. These dyes also contain ammonia, which opens the cuticle, and peroxide, which helps to develop the color. Box dyes are typically permanent or demi-permanent, meaning they deposit color deeply into the hair shaft.
The Interaction Between Bleach and Dye
When you bleach over dyed hair, you’re essentially trying to remove both the natural pigment and the artificial dye molecules. This puts a significant strain on the hair structure. The bleach has to work harder to break down the dye, increasing the risk of damage. Furthermore, the dye molecules can interfere with the bleaching process, leading to uneven lift and unwanted tones.
Factors to Consider Before Bleaching
Before you even think about reaching for the bleach, carefully assess several key factors to determine whether it’s a viable option for your hair.
Hair History
Your hair’s history is paramount. How many times have you dyed your hair with box dye? What colors have you used? The more you’ve dyed your hair, and the darker the colors, the more challenging and risky it will be to bleach it. Repeated coloring weakens the hair structure and increases the likelihood of damage.
Hair Condition
Evaluate the current condition of your hair. Is it dry, brittle, or prone to breakage? If your hair is already damaged, bleaching it will only exacerbate the problem. It’s crucial to ensure your hair is as healthy as possible before attempting any further chemical processing.
Desired Outcome
What is your desired end result? Are you aiming for a subtle lightening or a drastic transformation? The further you want to go from your current color, the more bleach will be required, and the greater the risk of damage. Realistic expectations are key. Don’t expect to go from black box dye to platinum blonde in one session without significant consequences.
Your Skill Level
Be honest about your skill level. Bleaching hair is a delicate process that requires precision and expertise. If you’re not confident in your ability to apply the bleach evenly, monitor the process closely, and take necessary precautions, it’s best to seek professional help.
Professional vs. DIY: Which Route is Best?
Deciding whether to attempt bleaching box dyed hair at home or to entrust it to a professional is a crucial decision. While DIY methods can be tempting due to their cost-effectiveness, the risks associated with bleaching over box dye often outweigh the potential savings.
The Case for Professional Help
A professional colorist has the knowledge, experience, and tools to assess your hair’s condition, formulate a customized bleaching plan, and minimize damage. They can also identify potential problems, such as metallic salts, and take corrective measures.
- Expert Assessment: A colorist can accurately assess your hair’s porosity, elasticity, and overall health, helping them determine the safest and most effective approach.
- Customized Formulation: They can create a bleach mixture tailored to your specific hair type, color history, and desired outcome, minimizing the risk of damage and unwanted tones.
- Precise Application: Professionals are trained to apply bleach evenly and strategically, avoiding hot spots and ensuring consistent lift.
- Damage Control: They can use conditioning treatments and bond builders to protect your hair during and after the bleaching process.
- Corrective Measures: If problems arise, a colorist can take immediate action to correct the situation and prevent further damage.
The Potential Pitfalls of DIY
While DIY bleaching may seem appealing, it comes with significant risks:
- Inaccurate Assessment: It’s difficult to accurately assess your hair’s condition and needs without professional training.
- Improper Formulation: Using the wrong bleach strength or developer volume can lead to uneven lift, damage, or even chemical burns.
- Uneven Application: Applying bleach unevenly can result in patchy color and hot spots, where the hair is over-processed.
- Lack of Damage Control: DIY methods often lack the advanced conditioning treatments and bond builders that professionals use to protect the hair.
- Difficulty Correcting Mistakes: If problems arise, it can be challenging to correct them without professional help, potentially leading to further damage.
If You Choose to DIY: A Step-by-Step Guide
If you’ve carefully considered the risks and are determined to bleach your box dyed hair at home, proceed with extreme caution. Here’s a step-by-step guide to minimize damage and maximize your chances of success.
Strand Test is Crucial
Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test. This will allow you to see how your hair reacts to the bleach and assess the color lift. Select a small, inconspicuous section of hair, such as underneath a layer at the nape of your neck. Apply the bleach mixture to the strand, following the instructions below, and monitor the process closely. This test will indicate how long the bleach needs to be on and the color that will develop.
Gather Your Supplies
- Bleach powder
- Developer (10 or 20 volume recommended)
- Mixing bowl
- Applicator brush
- Gloves
- Old towel or cape
- Hair clips
- Timer
- Toning shampoo and conditioner (optional)
- Bond builder (e.g., Olaplex)
Prepare the Bleach Mixture
Follow the instructions on the bleach powder and developer packaging to mix the solution. Start with a low volume developer (10 or 20) to minimize damage. Mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.
Apply the Bleach
Apply the bleach to your hair in small sections, starting at the roots (if you have significant regrowth) or where the box dye is darkest. Work your way down to the ends, ensuring even coverage. Avoid applying bleach to your scalp unless necessary, as it can cause irritation.
Monitor the Process
Check your hair every few minutes to monitor the color lift. Do not leave the bleach on longer than the recommended time on the packaging. The strand test will help you determine the process time.
Rinse and Tone (Optional)
Once you’ve achieved the desired level of lift, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Apply a toning shampoo and conditioner to neutralize any unwanted tones, such as brassiness.
Deep Condition
After bleaching, your hair will be dry and fragile. Apply a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair. Leave the treatment on for the recommended time, then rinse thoroughly.
Aftercare is Essential
Regardless of whether you bleach your hair at home or in a salon, proper aftercare is essential to maintain its health and prevent further damage.
Use Gentle Products
Switch to sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners designed for color-treated hair. These products are gentler on the hair and won’t strip away moisture or fade your color as quickly.
Minimize Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage already-fragile hair. Reduce your use of heat tools, such as blow dryers, curling irons, and straighteners. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray.
Deep Condition Regularly
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your hair care routine at least once a week. These treatments will help to replenish moisture, strengthen the hair, and prevent breakage.
Trim Regularly
Regular trims are essential to remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft. Aim for a trim every 6-8 weeks to maintain healthy hair.
Protect Your Hair From the Sun
Sun exposure can fade your hair color and damage the hair shaft. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Alternative Lightening Options
If you’re hesitant to bleach your box dyed hair, consider exploring alternative lightening options that are less damaging.
Color Remover
Color removers are designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair without lightening the natural pigment. While they may not lift your hair to a significantly lighter shade, they can help to remove unwanted tones and create a cleaner base for future coloring.
Highlights or Balayage
Instead of bleaching your entire head, consider getting highlights or balayage. These techniques involve lightening only select strands of hair, minimizing the overall damage.
Lowlights
If you are trying to blend box dyed hair into your natural color, sometimes lowlights in your natural color are a better option. This will create depth and dimension while causing much less damage.
Bleaching over box dyed hair is a risky endeavor that requires careful consideration and a thorough understanding of the potential consequences. While it’s possible to achieve your desired lighter shade, it’s crucial to prioritize the health of your hair and proceed with caution. Whether you choose to DIY or seek professional help, remember that patience, realistic expectations, and proper aftercare are essential for achieving the best possible results.
What are the biggest risks of bleaching box dyed hair?
Bleaching hair that has been previously colored with box dye carries several significant risks. The primary concern is the unpredictable chemical reaction that can occur between the bleach and the metallic salts often found in box dyes. These metallic salts can cause the hair to become extremely brittle, leading to breakage, severe damage, and an uneven lift in color. The heat generated by this reaction can also burn the hair and scalp, resulting in discomfort and potential long-term damage to the hair follicles.
Furthermore, box dyes often contain a higher concentration of pigment and stronger developers than professional salon dyes. This makes them more difficult to remove and increases the likelihood of ending up with an orange or brassy tone after bleaching. Achieving a desired lighter color can require multiple bleaching sessions, which further stresses the hair and increases the risk of irreversible damage. The uneven lift and potential for banding (where different sections of hair lift to different levels) are also common frustrations when attempting to bleach over box dyed hair.
Why is box dye harder to bleach than professional salon dye?
Box dyes differ significantly from professional salon dyes in formulation and application. Box dyes typically contain a higher volume of developer (the chemical that opens the hair cuticle and allows the dye to penetrate) than is necessary for many hair types. This higher volume ensures that the dye will work on a wider range of hair colors, but it also makes it more aggressive and damaging to the hair. Additionally, box dyes often deposit a larger amount of pigment, making them harder to lift during the bleaching process.
Professional salon dyes, on the other hand, are customizable to the individual’s hair type, condition, and desired result. Salon stylists can adjust the developer volume and pigment concentration to minimize damage and achieve a more predictable outcome. The precise formulation allows for a controlled lifting process when bleaching is required, making it significantly easier to remove existing color and achieve the desired shade without excessive damage. The quality and formulation differences are key factors in the difficulty of bleaching over box dyed hair.
How long should I wait after using box dye before attempting to bleach?
Patience is crucial when considering bleaching after using box dye. Ideally, you should wait at least 6-8 weeks after your last box dye application before attempting to bleach. This waiting period allows your hair to recover some of its natural strength and resilience, minimizing the risk of severe damage during the bleaching process. During this time, focus on deep conditioning treatments and avoiding heat styling to help repair any existing damage caused by the box dye.
If possible, waiting even longer than 8 weeks is preferable, especially if your hair feels dry, brittle, or damaged. The longer you wait, the more time your hair has to replenish its natural oils and strengthen its protein structure. Remember that bleaching is a harsh chemical process, and applying it to already compromised hair can lead to irreversible damage. Prioritize the health of your hair and allow ample time for recovery before attempting to bleach.
What’s the best way to test my hair’s reaction before bleaching over box dye?
Before committing to a full bleaching process, performing a strand test is absolutely essential. A strand test allows you to assess how your hair will react to the bleach and helps predict the potential outcome. Select a small, inconspicuous section of hair, ideally from the nape of your neck, and apply the bleach mixture to this strand, following the instructions on the bleach product. Observe the hair carefully, checking for any signs of excessive damage, breakage, or an unexpected color change.
During the strand test, pay close attention to the amount of time it takes for the hair to lift to the desired level and whether the hair maintains its integrity. Document the process, including the bleach mixture, processing time, and resulting color. If the strand test reveals significant damage or an undesirable color, it’s a clear indication that you should reconsider bleaching your entire head or seek professional help. The results of the strand test will inform your decision and help prevent widespread damage.
What kind of bleach should I use to bleach over box dyed hair?
Choosing the right bleach for lifting color from box dyed hair is crucial to minimize damage. Opt for a bleach powder that’s specifically formulated for on-scalp application if you plan to bleach your roots. Select a lower volume developer, such as 10 or 20 volume, to reduce the intensity of the bleaching process and give you more control. A lower volume developer lifts the color more slowly and gently, minimizing the risk of damage, especially on previously colored hair.
Avoid using high-volume developers (30 or 40 volume) as they can be too harsh and aggressive, leading to breakage and uneven lifting. Remember that bleaching over box dye is already a risky process, so choosing a gentler approach is key. Consider using a bleach additive, such as Olaplex or a similar bond-building product, to help protect your hair’s structure during the bleaching process. These additives can help minimize damage and keep your hair healthier throughout the process.
What are some signs that I should stop bleaching immediately?
Recognizing the signs of distress during the bleaching process is paramount to preventing irreversible damage. If you notice that your hair is becoming excessively elastic or gummy, this is a clear indication that the protein structure is breaking down, and you should stop bleaching immediately. Elasticity is a sign of damage to the bonds in your hair. Similarly, if your hair starts to feel hot or begins to smoke (a rare but serious occurrence), wash out the bleach immediately with cool water.
Another sign to watch out for is excessive breakage or shedding. If you’re seeing a significant amount of hair falling out or breaking off during the bleaching process, this indicates severe damage, and you need to stop immediately. Even if you haven’t reached your desired level of lightness, preserving the health of your hair is more important. Continuing to bleach damaged hair will only exacerbate the problem and could lead to long-term hair loss.
When is it best to see a professional colorist instead of bleaching at home?
Attempting to bleach over box dyed hair can be a complex and unpredictable process, making it often best left to a professional colorist. If your hair is already damaged, dry, brittle, or has undergone multiple color treatments, seeking professional help is highly recommended. A professional colorist can assess the condition of your hair and develop a customized treatment plan to minimize damage and achieve your desired color safely. They have the experience and expertise to anticipate potential problems and take corrective measures.
Furthermore, if you’re aiming for a significant color change, such as going from dark brown to blonde, a professional colorist is essential. Achieving such a drastic transformation requires a skilled hand and a thorough understanding of color theory and chemical processes. Attempting a major color correction at home can easily result in uneven color, banding, and severe damage. Investing in a consultation with a professional colorist can save you time, money, and, most importantly, your hair’s health in the long run.