The quest for the perfect hair color is often a journey filled with unexpected twists and turns. One common hurdle many face is unwanted red or orange tones peeking through after bleaching or coloring. This is where toner comes to the rescue. But with a vast array of toners available, understanding which one effectively neutralizes red can feel daunting. This comprehensive guide will delve into the science of color correction, the best toners for neutralizing red, and how to achieve salon-worthy results at home.
Understanding the Color Wheel and Hair Color Correction
Before diving into specific toners, it’s crucial to grasp the fundamental principles of color theory, particularly as it applies to hair. The color wheel is our map here, illustrating how colors relate to each other. Opposite colors on the wheel neutralize each other.
On the color wheel, green sits directly opposite red. This means that green-based toners are the most effective at neutralizing red tones in hair. When you apply a green-toned product to reddish hair, the green pigments counteract the red, bringing the hair closer to a more neutral or balanced shade.
The Role of Underlying Pigments
The hair’s natural or previously dyed color significantly impacts the outcome of toning. When hair is lightened, underlying pigments are revealed. These pigments are often warm, typically ranging from red to orange to yellow. The level of lightness achieved determines which underlying pigment is most prominent.
For example, if your hair is lifted to a level 5 or 6, you’re likely dealing with strong red tones. If it’s lifted to a level 7 or 8, you might see more orange or yellow. Understanding this is essential for choosing the correct toner strength and shade. The darker the red, the more intense the green toner needs to be.
Hair Levels and Toner Selection
Hairdressers use a level system, usually ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde), to determine the lightness of hair. This system helps identify the underlying pigments that need to be addressed with toner.
- Level 5-6 (Dark Red): Requires a strong green-based toner.
- Level 6-7 (Red-Orange): Needs a green-blue based toner, or a combination of green and blue.
- Level 7-8 (Orange): Might need a blue-based toner or a diluted green toner.
The Best Toners for Neutralizing Red Tones
Several toners on the market effectively neutralize red tones. These often contain green or blue-green pigments to counteract the warmth. The key is to select a toner appropriate for your hair level and the intensity of the red.
Green-Based Toners: The Go-To for Redness
These toners are specifically formulated to neutralize red. They deposit green pigments into the hair shaft, effectively canceling out the red hues. However, caution is advised. Overuse of green toner can result in a greenish tint, especially on very light hair.
Consider a test strand before applying the toner all over your head. This allows you to gauge the processing time and ensure you achieve the desired result.
Blue-Green Toners: A Versatile Option
Blue-green toners offer a slightly less intense approach to neutralizing red. The blue component helps address any orange tones that might be present alongside the red, offering a more balanced correction. These are suitable for levels 6-7, where both red and orange tones exist.
These are often a safer bet than pure green toners, especially for beginners. They provide a softer correction and reduce the risk of over-toning.
Ash Toners: A Cautious Approach
Ash toners, which typically have a blue or violet base, are generally used to combat orange or yellow tones. While they can indirectly reduce redness by cooling down the overall hair color, they aren’t the primary choice for neutralizing strong red hues. They might be used in combination with a green toner for a more nuanced result, particularly if you also have brassiness.
Using ash toners alone on very red hair can sometimes create a muddy or dull effect. It’s best to consult with a professional or conduct thorough research before using ash toners to neutralize red.
Specific Toner Recommendations
While specific product recommendations change frequently with new formulations and trends, looking for toners labeled as “anti-red,” “green-based,” or “ash-green” is a good starting point. Reading online reviews and before-and-after photos can also provide valuable insights.
Some popular brands often offer toners suitable for neutralizing red. Look for options that specify their target tones and intended hair levels. Always check the ingredient list for pigments like green or blue-green.
Developer Volume: A Crucial Factor
The developer volume used with your toner significantly impacts the outcome. Lower developer volumes (10 or 20 volume) are typically recommended for toning. Higher volumes can lift the hair further, potentially exacerbating the problem by revealing more underlying red pigments.
- 10 Volume Developer: Deposits color with minimal lift. Ideal for subtle toning and maintaining existing color.
- 20 Volume Developer: Deposits color with a slight lift. Suitable for slightly stronger toning and covering minimal grays.
Using a higher volume developer than necessary can damage your hair. Always prioritize the health of your hair and use the lowest volume developer that will achieve the desired result.
Application Techniques for Optimal Results
Applying toner correctly is just as important as choosing the right product. Here are some essential tips:
- Strand Test: Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This allows you to assess the color development and processing time.
- Even Application: Apply the toner evenly to ensure consistent results. Use a tint brush and section your hair for thorough coverage.
- Processing Time: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for processing time. Regularly check the hair’s color development to prevent over-toning.
- Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the toner thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. This helps seal the cuticle and prevent further color loss.
- Use a Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: After toning, use color-safe shampoo and conditioner to maintain the color and prevent fading.
Preventing Red Tones in the First Place
While toners are excellent for correcting unwanted red tones, preventing them from appearing in the first place is even better. Several strategies can help minimize redness during the coloring process:
Choosing the Right Hair Color
Selecting a hair color that is already cool-toned or ash-based can help prevent the development of red tones. Avoid warm-toned colors, especially if your hair naturally pulls red.
Consider your natural hair color and undertones when choosing a hair color. A colorist can help you select a shade that complements your complexion and minimizes the risk of unwanted warmth.
Proper Bleaching Techniques
The bleaching process significantly impacts the final hair color. Lifting the hair slowly and evenly is crucial for minimizing brassiness and redness. Using a high-quality bleach and following the manufacturer’s instructions carefully can help achieve a cleaner lift.
Avoid over-processing your hair. This can damage the hair and make it more prone to absorbing unwanted tones.
Using a Protein Filler Before Coloring
Protein fillers help even out the porosity of the hair, allowing for more even color absorption. This can prevent the color from grabbing more strongly in certain areas, reducing the likelihood of uneven tones and redness.
Protein fillers can also help protect the hair from damage during the coloring process. This is especially beneficial for hair that is already damaged or porous.
Regular Maintenance and Color Refreshing
Maintaining your hair color with regular touch-ups and color-refreshing treatments can help prevent the buildup of unwanted tones. Using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner can also help maintain the color between salon visits.
Regular deep conditioning treatments can help keep your hair healthy and prevent color fading. Healthy hair holds color better and is less prone to developing unwanted tones.
When to Seek Professional Help
While at-home toning can be effective, there are times when seeking professional help is the best course of action. If you are unsure about which toner to use, or if you have severely damaged or unevenly colored hair, consulting a professional colorist is highly recommended.
A professional colorist can assess your hair’s condition, identify the underlying pigments, and create a customized toning plan to achieve your desired results. They can also correct any color imbalances or damage that may have occurred from previous coloring attempts.
Ultimately, understanding the color wheel and the underlying pigments in your hair is essential for effectively neutralizing red tones. By choosing the right toner, using the correct application techniques, and taking preventative measures, you can achieve a beautiful, balanced hair color that you love. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed. This ensures a successful and satisfying hair coloring experience.
What causes red tones to appear in hair after bleaching or coloring?
Red tones often appear in hair after bleaching or coloring due to the underlying pigments that are naturally present in your hair. When lightening the hair, the melanin, which provides color, is broken down. Darker hair typically contains more red and orange pigments, which are the most difficult to lift. This is why those warm tones often remain visible, even after bleaching processes aimed at achieving a lighter color.
The level of lift achieved also plays a significant role. If the hair is not lifted to a level high enough to completely remove the red and orange undertones, they will become more prominent. Hair that has previously been colored can also contribute to these red tones, as the artificial pigment can react unexpectedly during the lightening process.
What color toner neutralizes red in hair?
A green-based toner is the most effective for neutralizing red tones in hair. Green sits opposite red on the color wheel, making them complementary colors. When applied, the green pigment in the toner counteracts and cancels out the red, resulting in a more neutral or cooler shade.
It’s important to choose the right level of green toner based on the intensity of the red in your hair. For bright red tones, a stronger green toner will be necessary. For more subtle, coppery red hues, a lighter, more diluted green-based toner will suffice. Consult a color chart or hair professional to determine the appropriate toner for your specific needs.
How do I choose the right green toner for my hair?
Selecting the right green toner involves considering the depth and intensity of the red tones you’re trying to neutralize and the current level of your hair. Examine your hair in natural light to accurately assess the redness. Then, compare your hair’s level (ranging from 1, black, to 10, lightest blonde) to color charts provided by toner manufacturers. This will help you determine the correct level of toner to use.
If you have very dark hair with deep red undertones, you may need a more pigmented, deeper green toner. For lighter hair with subtle red or coppery hues, a lighter, pastel green toner will be more suitable. Avoid using a toner that is significantly darker than your hair’s current level, as this can lead to muddy or undesirable results. When in doubt, always err on the side of a lighter toner.
What are the best green toners available on the market?
Several reputable brands offer effective green toners designed to neutralize red tones. Wella Color Charm T14 (although technically violet-based, it has green undertones that can work well) and Redken Shades EQ Gloss in various green-based shades are popular choices among professionals and home users. These brands are known for their consistent results and wide range of shades.
Beyond those, look for brands that specifically mention “green” or “anti-red” in the product description. Always read reviews and check before-and-after photos to see how the toner has performed on similar hair colors. Remember to select a toner that is suitable for your hair type and the level of redness you want to neutralize.
How do I apply green toner to my hair at home?
Applying green toner at home requires careful preparation and attention to detail. Start by conducting a strand test to ensure you achieve the desired results and to check for any allergic reactions. Always wear gloves to protect your hands from staining. Mix the toner with the developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually a 1:2 ratio.
Apply the mixture evenly to clean, damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most prominent red tones. Work in small sections to ensure thorough coverage. Leave the toner on for the recommended time (typically 10-30 minutes), checking the color regularly. Rinse thoroughly with cool water and follow with a color-safe shampoo and conditioner.
What are the potential risks of using green toner?
While green toner is generally safe to use, there are potential risks associated with improper application or selection. Using a toner that is too strong or leaving it on for too long can result in overly green or muddy-looking hair. Patchy application can lead to uneven color results, with some areas still showing red tones while others appear too green.
Another risk is over-processing the hair. Repeated toning, especially on already damaged hair, can lead to dryness, breakage, and further damage. It’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and to avoid over-toning. Always prioritize the health of your hair and consult a professional if you’re unsure about any aspect of the toning process.
How can I prevent red tones from appearing in my hair in the first place?
Preventing red tones starts with proper hair lightening techniques. If you’re bleaching your hair, consider going to a professional stylist. They have the experience and knowledge to lift your hair to the correct level, minimizing the appearance of unwanted red and orange undertones. If you’re coloring at home, choose a color that is a level or two lighter than your desired shade to account for the natural warm tones in your hair.
Use color-safe shampoo and conditioner to prolong the life of your color and prevent fading, which can expose underlying red tones. Minimize heat styling, as heat can also contribute to color fade. Consider using a blue or purple shampoo periodically to help counteract any warm tones that may begin to appear between coloring sessions. These shampoos deposit a small amount of cool pigment to keep your color looking fresh and vibrant.