The question of whether to put flour on chicken first is a cornerstone of home cooking and professional kitchens alike, a seemingly simple query that unlocks a world of culinary techniques and delicious outcomes. For many, the image of perfectly golden, crispy fried chicken immediately brings to mind a flour coating, but the application and purpose of this initial step extend far beyond just a Southern classic. Understanding when, why, and how to use flour on chicken can elevate a dish from merely good to truly exceptional, influencing everything from texture and moisture to flavor absorption and even presentation.
The Age-Old Culinary Question: To Flour or Not to Flour Chicken First?
The practice of coating chicken in flour before cooking is deeply ingrained in numerous culinary traditions across the globe. From the iconic American fried chicken to delicate pan-seared cutlets in European cuisine, flour often plays a critical role. However, its necessity and optimal application depend entirely on the desired outcome and the specific cooking method being employed. It is not a one-size-fits-all solution, but rather a versatile tool in a chef’s repertoire.
The Fundamental Role of Flour in Chicken Preparation
Flour serves multiple purposes when applied to chicken. Primarily, it acts as a binder for seasonings, helping them adhere uniformly to the meat. This ensures that every bite is imbued with the intended flavor profile, rather than having spices fall off during cooking. Beyond this foundational role, flour transforms into a protective barrier, influencing how the chicken cooks and interacts with heat.
Moreover, flour contributes significantly to the final texture of the dish. When exposed to heat and fat, it undergoes a magical transformation, creating a desirable crust that can range from delicately crisp to robustly crunchy. This crust is not just about texture; it also plays a crucial role in moisture retention, helping to keep the chicken succulent and juicy inside.
The Science Behind the Crispy Crust: Why Flour Works
The transformation of plain flour into a delectable, golden crust involves several fascinating scientific principles. It’s a delicate dance between heat, moisture, and proteins that culminates in the beloved crispy exterior. Understanding these processes helps home cooks replicate restaurant-quality results.
The Maillard Reaction and Beyond
At the heart of the browning and flavor development in a flour coating lies the Maillard reaction. This complex chemical process occurs when amino acids and reducing sugars react under heat, creating hundreds of new flavor compounds and contributing to the desirable golden-brown color. Flour, composed primarily of carbohydrates (starches) and some protein, provides the perfect substrate for this reaction when combined with the surface proteins of the chicken. The dry flour layer, once hydrated by the chicken’s surface moisture and then exposed to hot oil or dry heat, quickly reaches the optimal temperature for the Maillard reaction to flourish.
Beyond the Maillard reaction, the flour also undergoes starch gelatinization and dextrinization. As the starch granules absorb moisture and are heated, they swell and eventually burst, forming a matrix that solidifies and crisps. Dextrinization, occurring at higher temperatures, further breaks down starches into simpler sugars, contributing to browning and a slightly sweeter flavor profile. This intricate interplay of reactions results in a complex, flavorful, and textural crust.
Moisture Management and Flavor Infusion
One of the less obvious but equally important roles of flour is its ability to manage moisture. When chicken is coated in flour and then introduced to hot oil, the flour layer rapidly dehydrates and forms a barrier. This barrier helps to trap the chicken’s internal moisture, preventing it from escaping too quickly and resulting in a juicier piece of meat. Without this protective layer, the surface of the chicken would dry out much faster, leading to a tougher, less palatable result, especially in high-heat cooking methods like deep-frying.
Furthermore, the flour acts as a sponge, soaking up flavors from the chicken’s surface, any marinades, or brines, and even the cooking oil itself. When seasoned properly, the flour coating becomes an integral part of the dish’s flavor profile, carrying the herbs, spices, and salt directly to the palate. This creates a cohesive flavor experience where the coating and the meat work in harmony.
Common Chicken Preparations: When Flour is Your Friend (and When it’s Not)
The decision to flour chicken first is highly dependent on the cooking method. While it’s indispensable for some techniques, it can be detrimental to others. A discerning cook understands these distinctions and applies flour strategically.
Deep-Frying and Pan-Frying: The Classic Flour Application
When it comes to deep-frying and pan-frying, flour is almost always a prerequisite for achieving that iconic crispy, golden crust. It creates a robust barrier against the hot oil, ensuring even cooking and preventing the chicken from becoming greasy.
The Wet-to-Dry Method: A Culinary Foundation
For fried chicken, whether deep-fried or pan-fried, the wet-to-dry method is a fundamental technique. This typically involves dipping the chicken in a liquid (like buttermilk, eggs, or even water) first, and then dredging it thoroughly in seasoned flour. The liquid helps the flour adhere to the chicken, creating a thicker, more substantial coating. As the chicken cooks, this coating fries into a glorious, crunchy shell, protecting the moist interior. The initial wet layer is critical for establishing a strong bond with the flour, ensuring the coating remains intact throughout the cooking process and delivers maximum crispness.
The flour mixture for frying is often heavily seasoned with salt, pepper, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, and other herbs and spices. This seasoned flour is what truly flavors the crust, making it an integral part of the dish’s overall taste profile. Without this seasoned flour, fried chicken would lack its signature flavor and texture.
Seasoning and Adhesion: Optimizing the Coating
Achieving optimal adhesion of the flour to the chicken requires careful technique. After dipping the chicken in a liquid, it should be thoroughly coated in flour, pressing gently to ensure every surface is covered. Excess flour should then be shaken off to prevent a gummy texture. A thin, even layer is preferred for maximum crispness. The seasoning should be incorporated directly into the flour mixture, ensuring that the flavor permeates the entire crust. This is where the magic happens, as the spices toast slightly during frying, intensifying their aroma and taste.
Baking and Roasting: A Different Approach to Crispy Skin
While frying often necessitates a flour coating, baking and roasting present a more nuanced scenario. Flour can still play a role, but its application and purpose differ significantly.
Flour for Roasting: A Thickening Agent or a Skin Enhancer?
When roasting a whole chicken or large pieces, some recipes suggest a light dusting of flour, especially if a gravy is to be made from the pan drippings. Here, the flour acts as a thickening agent, ensuring a smoother, richer gravy. However, for achieving crispy skin on a roasted chicken, direct flour application is less common and often unnecessary. The natural fat in the chicken skin, when rendered at high temperatures, is usually sufficient to create a crisp exterior without an additional flour coating. In fact, a thick flour layer could potentially prevent the skin from crisping fully or lead to a pasty texture.
However, for recipes like “oven-fried” chicken, where a crispy coating without deep-frying is desired, a flour dredge is often employed. In this case, the chicken might be brushed with oil or butter before being coated in seasoned flour and then baked at a relatively high temperature. The flour helps create a crispy crust mimicking fried chicken, albeit with a different flavor profile and less fat. The key here is sufficient fat (either from the chicken or added) and high heat to ensure the flour crisps and browns.
Alternatives for Crispy Baked Chicken
For baked or roasted chicken where crispiness is paramount, there are often more effective alternatives to flour. Patting the chicken skin extremely dry before roasting is crucial. Rubbing it with a small amount of oil, butter, or even baking powder can enhance crispness. Baking powder, in particular, raises the pH of the chicken skin, causing peptide bonds to break down and allowing for a crispier texture. These methods focus on enhancing the chicken’s natural skin crispiness rather than adding a flour layer.
Grilling and Sautéing: Flour’s Limited Role
In grilling and sautéing, the role of flour is generally minimal or even counterproductive. These cooking methods rely on direct heat and often less fat than frying, making flour an unsuitable choice in most cases.
When Flour Hinders: Preventing Sticking and Burning
For grilling, a flour coating is almost never recommended. The high, direct heat of the grill would cause the flour to burn rapidly before the chicken is cooked through, leading to an acrid taste and an unappetizing black crust. Furthermore, flour can cause the chicken to stick to the grill grates, making it difficult to flip and resulting in torn meat. Grilling relies on marinades, rubs, and the natural browning of the meat itself for flavor and char.
Similarly, for quick sautéing of thin chicken cutlets or stir-fries, flour is usually avoided. While a very light dusting can sometimes prevent sticking in a pan with insufficient fat, it more often results in a gummy coating that doesn’t brown nicely and can burn easily. Sautéing aims for a quick sear and tender interior, and a flour coating generally interferes with this process unless it’s specifically for a sauce or gravy reduction, where the flour is intended to thicken.
Achieving Flavor and Texture Without Flour
For grilled or sautéed chicken, flavor and texture are achieved through other means. Marinades penetrate the meat, tenderizing it and infusing it with flavor. Dry rubs create a flavorful crust without burning. Quick searing in a hot pan with a little oil develops a beautiful Maillard crust directly on the chicken’s surface. These methods prioritize direct contact between the chicken and the heat source, which flour would impede.
Preparation Prowess: Mastering the Flour Application
Successfully using flour on chicken is not just about sprinkling it on; it’s about a series of deliberate steps that ensure perfect adhesion, flavor, and texture. Mastering these techniques is key to unlocking the full potential of a flour coating.
Selecting the Right Flour: A Culinary Canvas
The type of flour you choose can subtly influence the final texture and flavor of your chicken. While all-purpose flour is the standard, experimenting with others can yield unique results.
All-Purpose Flour: The Versatile Staple
All-purpose flour is the workhorse of the kitchen and the most common choice for coating chicken. Its moderate protein content (around 10-12%) provides a good balance for crispiness and adhesion. It’s readily available, inexpensive, and consistently delivers reliable results for fried or pan-seared chicken. When seasoned correctly, it forms a light, crunchy crust that is universally appealing. For most home cooks, starting and staying with all-purpose flour for chicken coatings is an excellent strategy.
Specialty Flours: Adding Nuance and Texture
Beyond all-purpose flour, several specialty flours can offer different textural experiences.
Here are a couple of examples:
- Self-rising flour: This flour contains baking powder and salt already mixed in. When used for chicken, it can result in an exceptionally light and puffy crust, almost like a thin batter. The leavening agents create tiny air pockets during frying, contributing to a very tender and airy crunch. Be mindful of the added salt when seasoning your mixture.
- Cornstarch or Potato Starch: While technically not flours, these starches are often used in similar applications, especially in Asian cuisines. They yield an incredibly crispy, almost shattering crust. They are often used as a partial or complete substitute for flour, particularly when a very light, super-crisp texture is desired. Their higher starch content and lack of gluten contribute to this unique crispness.
Other options include rice flour, which provides a delicate, fine crispness, or gluten-free blends designed to mimic all-purpose flour’s properties. The choice depends on the desired final texture and any dietary considerations.
The Pre-Flour Ritual: Steps for Success
The success of your flour coating often begins long before the chicken ever touches the flour. Proper preparation of the chicken itself is paramount for optimal adhesion and flavor.
Brining and Marinating: Building Flavor from Within
Before applying any coating, consider brining or marinating your chicken. Brining involves soaking chicken in a saltwater solution, which helps to season the meat thoroughly and keeps it incredibly juicy. Marinating, often with acidic ingredients like buttermilk or citrus, tenderizes the meat and infuses it with additional flavors. Both processes add moisture to the chicken’s surface, which paradoxically, can help the flour adhere better after the chicken has been patted dry. A well-brined or marinated piece of chicken will be flavorful from the inside out, complementing the seasoned flour coating.
Patting Dry: The Critical Step for Adhesion
This is perhaps the most crucial step for achieving a perfect flour coating. Regardless of whether you brined, marinated, or started with plain chicken, it is essential to pat the chicken extremely dry with paper towels before applying any flour. Excess surface moisture creates a soggy layer between the chicken and the flour, preventing the flour from adhering properly and resulting in a crust that slides off during cooking. A dry surface allows the flour to cling directly to the chicken’s proteins, forming a strong, cohesive bond that will crisp beautifully.
Seasoning the Chicken: Flavor First
While the flour mixture itself will be seasoned, it’s also beneficial to lightly season the chicken directly before dredging. A sprinkle of salt and pepper on the chicken itself ensures that even if the coating were to fall off in some places, the meat would still be flavorful. This layering of seasoning builds depth and ensures every bite is delicious. The initial seasoning can also help draw out a tiny bit of surface moisture, further aiding flour adhesion.
The Flour Dredging Technique: Precision in Coating
The actual act of dredging chicken in flour might seem straightforward, but a few techniques can significantly improve the outcome.
The Shake-and-Bake Method (without the product name): Ensuring Even Coverage
For an even and efficient coating, a simple “shake-and-bake” technique is highly effective. Place the seasoned flour mixture in a large zip-top bag or a shallow dish. Add a few pieces of patted-dry chicken at a time (avoid overcrowding). Seal the bag or cover the dish, and gently shake or toss to coat the chicken thoroughly. This method ensures that every nook and cranny of the chicken piece is covered, leading to a consistent crust. Alternatively, for larger batches, place the flour in a large bowl and use tongs to turn and press each piece of chicken until fully coated.
The Art of the Light Coating: Avoiding Clumps
After coating, gently lift each piece of chicken and shake off any excess flour. A common mistake is to leave too much flour on the chicken, which can lead to a thick, gummy, or doughy crust that doesn’t crisp properly or can even taste raw. You want a thin, even layer that just adheres to the surface. The goal is to enhance the chicken, not to overwhelm it with a heavy coating. Excess flour can also fall off into the hot oil, burning and dirtying the frying fat quickly.
Post-Flouring Considerations: Resting and Oil Temperature
Once the chicken is floured, there are two critical steps before it hits the heat that will guarantee a superior result.
The Importance of the Rest: Setting the Coating
After dredging, allow the floured chicken to rest for at least 15-30 minutes at room temperature. This resting period is crucial. It gives the flour time to absorb some of the chicken’s surface moisture, creating a paste-like layer that “sets” the coating. This setting process significantly improves adhesion, reducing the likelihood of the flour falling off during cooking. It also allows the chicken to come closer to room temperature, promoting more even cooking when it hits the hot oil. Rushing this step often leads to a patchy, less appealing crust.
Oil Temperature: The Key to Golden Perfection
Finally, the temperature of your cooking oil is paramount for a perfectly crispy, golden-brown crust and a thoroughly cooked interior. For frying, the ideal oil temperature is typically between 325°F and 375°F (160°C and 195°C).
Consider the following for precise temperature control:
- Too Cold Oil: If the oil is too cool, the flour coating will absorb too much oil, leading to a greasy, soggy crust. The chicken will also take longer to cook, potentially drying out.
- Too Hot Oil: If the oil is too hot, the coating will brown and burn quickly before the chicken has a chance to cook through, resulting in a burnt exterior and a raw interior.
- Maintaining Temperature: Use a reliable thermometer to monitor the oil temperature. Add chicken in batches to avoid dropping the oil temperature too drastically. A stable, consistent temperature is key to achieving that perfect golden crispness and even cooking.
A stable temperature ensures the flour cooks evenly, crisps beautifully, and develops its deep, appealing color without burning.
Beyond the Basic Flour: Elevating Your Chicken Dishes
While a simple flour dredge is effective, there are many ways to enhance your chicken coating, adding layers of flavor and texture.
Incorporating Spices and Herbs into the Flour Mix
The flour mixture is a blank canvas for flavor. Beyond basic salt and pepper, consider adding a variety of dried herbs and spices. Paprika adds color and a subtle sweetness. Garlic powder and onion powder are indispensable for savory depth. Cayenne pepper or chili powder can introduce a kick of heat. Dried thyme, oregano, rosemary, or sage can impart aromatic complexity. Experiment with different ratios to create your signature blend, ensuring the spices are well distributed throughout the flour.
The Double Dredge: Unlocking Extra Crispiness
For an extra-thick, extra-crispy crust, consider the “double dredge” method. After the initial dip in liquid and flour, the chicken is dipped back into the liquid (often egg wash for better adhesion) and then dredged in flour a second time. This creates a more substantial coating that results in an incredibly crunchy texture, perfect for those who love a robust crust. This technique is often used for restaurant-style fried chicken, offering maximum textural impact.
Flour Alternatives and Gluten-Free Options
For dietary reasons or to achieve a different texture, various alternatives to wheat flour can be used.
Cornstarch: The Crispy King
Cornstarch is an excellent alternative to flour, especially for creating an incredibly light and crispy coating. Often used in Asian frying techniques (e.g., General Tso’s chicken), cornstarch results in a delicate, almost shattering crispness. It can be used alone or mixed with flour for a combination of textures. When fried, cornstarch forms a very thin, translucent, and incredibly crisp shell.
Rice Flour: A Delicate Crunch
Rice flour provides a similar delicate crunch to cornstarch but with a slightly finer texture. It’s naturally gluten-free and works wonderfully for light and crispy coatings. It’s particularly popular in tempura batters, yielding a light and airy result. When used as a dredge, it creates a subtle crispness that doesn’t overpower the chicken.
Gluten-Free Blends and Nut Flours
For those with gluten sensitivities, a variety of gluten-free all-purpose flour blends are available that can be used as a direct substitute for wheat flour. These blends are formulated to mimic the texture and binding properties of wheat flour. Additionally, nut flours like almond flour or coconut flour can be used, though they behave differently. They tend to brown faster due to their fat content and can offer unique flavors. However, they may not achieve the same crispness as traditional flour or starch coatings without additional binders or techniques.
Troubleshooting Common Flour Coating Issues
Even with careful preparation, issues can arise. Understanding common problems and their solutions can save your dish.
Soggy Chicken: Identifying the Culprits
Soggy chicken is usually a sign of incorrect oil temperature, overcrowding the pan, or insufficient resting time. If the oil is too cold, the flour coating will absorb too much oil, becoming greasy and soggy instead of crisp. Overcrowding the pan dramatically lowers oil temperature, leading to the same problem. Not resting the floured chicken allows surface moisture to seep through, causing the coating to become pasty and less adherent. Ensure proper temperature, fry in batches, and allow adequate rest time.
Burnt Coating, Raw Inside: Temperature Mismanagement
This common issue occurs when the oil is too hot. The exterior coating browns and burns too quickly, forming a dark, bitter crust before the internal temperature of the chicken has a chance to reach a safe and cooked state. Always use a thermometer to monitor oil temperature and adjust heat as needed. If the coating is browning too fast, lower the heat slightly, or if deep-frying, remove the chicken for a moment to let the oil cool down before returning it.
Flour Falling Off: Adhesion Challenges
The flour coating falling off is often due to insufficient patting dry of the chicken before dredging, or not allowing the floured chicken to rest. If the chicken surface is too wet, the flour won’t adhere properly. The resting period allows the flour to bond with the chicken’s surface moisture, creating a more stable coating. Another reason could be excessive handling of the chicken once it’s in the oil. Once submerged, try to disturb it as little as possible.
The Verdict: Flour or Not? It Depends on Your Culinary Goal
Ultimately, the question “Do you put flour on chicken first?” has no single yes or no answer. It’s a resounding “It depends!” The decision hinges entirely on the specific cooking method you plan to use and the textural and flavor profile you aim to achieve.
Achieving Culinary Excellence Through Understanding
For classic fried chicken, pan-seared cutlets with a golden crust, or “oven-fried” versions seeking crispiness without deep-frying, flour is not just recommended; it’s essential. It’s the ingredient that transforms a simple piece of chicken into a textural delight, creating that coveted crispy barrier that seals in moisture and elevates the flavor. The science behind the Maillard reaction and moisture management explains why this seemingly simple step is so profoundly effective.
However, for grilling, broiling, or many sautéing applications where direct searing and natural browning are desired, flour often hinders rather than helps. In these cases, it can burn, create a gummy texture, or prevent the development of a beautiful, caramelized crust directly on the chicken’s surface. A deep understanding of how flour interacts with heat, fat, and moisture for different cooking methods empowers you to make informed decisions and truly master your chicken dishes.
The Flour Factor: A Cornerstone of Classic Chicken Dishes
So, next time you prepare chicken, consider your end goal. If a golden, crispy, flavorful crust is what you seek, embrace the flour. Learn the techniques of proper drying, seasoning, dredging, and resting. Master the oil temperature. The simple act of putting flour on chicken first, when applied thoughtfully and precisely, is a time-honored culinary secret that can consistently deliver delicious, restaurant-quality results in your own kitchen. It’s more than just a coating; it’s a fundamental technique that transforms everyday poultry into a truly memorable meal.
Why do people put flour on chicken before cooking?
Flouring chicken serves several key purposes, primarily contributing to a desirable texture and improved browning. When coated in flour, chicken develops a crispy, golden-brown crust when fried or pan-seared. The flour absorbs moisture from the chicken’s surface, preventing steaming and promoting direct contact with the hot oil, which is essential for crispiness.
Beyond texture, flour also helps to create a protective barrier around the meat, which can keep the chicken juicy by slowing down moisture loss during cooking. Additionally, it helps seasonings adhere to the chicken more effectively, ensuring an even distribution of flavor. For gravies or sauces, residual flour from cooking can also act as a natural thickener, incorporating into the pan drippings to create a richer sauce.
Is it necessary to put flour on chicken?
No, it is not strictly necessary to put flour on chicken, as many delicious chicken dishes do not involve a flour coating. For grilling, roasting, or stewing, chicken is often cooked without any flour, relying on marinades, rubs, or braising liquids for flavor and moisture. The necessity of flour depends entirely on the desired outcome and cooking method.
However, if your goal is to achieve a crispy exterior, create a substantial crust, or prepare pan-fried chicken where a golden-brown, slightly thick coating is desired, then flour becomes a highly recommended and almost indispensable step. It’s particularly crucial for classic fried chicken recipes or dishes where the coating is a signature element of the dish.
What’s the best way to flour chicken for frying?
The best way to flour chicken for frying involves ensuring an even and thorough coating without excess clumps. Begin by patting the chicken pieces very dry with paper towels; moisture is the enemy of a crispy crust. Then, season your flour generously with salt, pepper, and any desired spices (like paprika, garlic powder, onion powder).
Place the seasoned flour in a shallow dish, a resealable plastic bag, or a large bowl. Add the chicken pieces one or two at a time, shaking off any excess flour after coating. Ensure every part of the chicken is covered. For an extra crispy crust, some recipes suggest a “double dredge,” where chicken is dipped in an egg wash after the initial flouring, then floured again. Allow the floured chicken to rest for a few minutes before frying; this helps the coating adhere better and prevents it from falling off in the hot oil.
Can I use other coatings instead of flour?
Absolutely, there are numerous alternatives to traditional wheat flour that can be used to coat chicken, each offering distinct textures and flavors. Cornstarch is a popular choice, particularly in Asian cuisine, for creating an incredibly crisp, light, and almost glassy coating, often used in dishes like General Tso’s chicken or sweet and sour chicken. It results in a crunchier texture than flour.
Other alternatives include cornmeal, which provides a coarser, slightly gritty texture and a rich golden color, popular in Southern fried chicken variations. Breadcrumbs, panko (Japanese breadcrumbs), or crushed crackers can also be used for a very substantial and crispy crust. For gluten-free options, rice flour, tapioca starch, or a blend of gluten-free flours work well, often yielding a crisp result similar to cornstarch.
Does flouring chicken make it crispy?
Yes, flouring chicken is one of the most effective methods to achieve a crispy exterior, especially when frying or pan-searing. The flour creates a dry outer layer that, when exposed to high heat and fat, quickly dehydrates and forms a rigid, crunchy crust. This process is similar to how bread forms a crust when baked or toasted.
The presence of the flour also helps to manage the moisture on the chicken’s surface. Without it, surface moisture would turn into steam, preventing direct contact with the hot oil and resulting in a softer, less crispy texture. The flour acts as a barrier, allowing the surface to brown and crisp up efficiently while locking in juices within the chicken, contributing to a desirable contrast between the tender interior and crunchy exterior.
How does flour affect the flavor of chicken?
While flour itself has a relatively neutral taste, its primary impact on the flavor of chicken comes indirectly through its interaction with seasonings and the cooking process. When seasoned flour is applied, it ensures that salt, pepper, herbs, and spices adhere uniformly to the chicken’s surface, leading to a more consistent and impactful flavor in every bite of the crust.
Furthermore, the flour coating, when browned, develops its own nutty, toasted flavor, adding another layer of complexity to the dish. This Maillard reaction contributes savory, often umami notes that enhance the overall taste profile. For dishes where gravies or pan sauces are made, the residual flour from the chicken also thickens the drippings, allowing the concentrated flavors of the chicken and spices to be incorporated into a richer, more cohesive sauce.
What happens if you don’t flour chicken before frying?
If you don’t flour chicken before frying, several outcomes are likely, most notably a lack of crispiness and uneven browning. Without a flour coating, the chicken’s natural surface moisture will turn into steam when it hits the hot oil, preventing the meat from making direct contact with the pan and achieving a proper sear or a truly crispy crust. The result will often be a softer, sometimes rubbery skin or exterior, rather than the desired crunchy texture.
Additionally, the absence of flour means that any seasonings applied directly to the chicken’s surface are more prone to washing off into the oil during cooking, leading to a less flavorful exterior. The chicken might also stick more easily to the pan, and the pan drippings will be thin and watery rather than forming the basis for a rich, naturally thickened pan sauce or gravy.