Toning is a crucial step in achieving the perfect hair color, but what happens when you apply it to hair that’s already been dyed? The answer is nuanced and depends on various factors, including the existing hair color, the dye used, the type of toner, and the desired outcome. Understanding these factors will help you avoid unwanted results and achieve the beautiful, balanced color you’re aiming for.
Understanding Hair Dye and Toner
Before diving into the specifics, it’s essential to understand the difference between hair dye and toner.
Hair dye, whether permanent, demi-permanent, or semi-permanent, alters the hair’s color by depositing pigment or lightening the hair’s natural shade. Permanent dyes open the hair cuticle to deposit color molecules, offering long-lasting results. Demi-permanent dyes deposit color and blend with your natural shade without lightening, gradually fading over time. Semi-permanent dyes coat the hair shaft, providing temporary color that washes out after several shampoos.
Toner, on the other hand, doesn’t significantly lift or deposit much color. Its primary purpose is to neutralize unwanted undertones, such as brassiness (orange or yellow tones) in blonde hair or redness in brunette hair. Toners contain pigments that counteract these unwanted tones, resulting in a more balanced and refined color. They typically use a low-volume developer or are sometimes ammonia-free, minimizing damage to the hair.
The Role of Pigment in Hair Color
Hair color is determined by the presence of melanin, which exists in two primary forms: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black tones) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow tones). When hair is lightened, these pigments are broken down, often revealing underlying warm tones. Toners work by depositing complementary pigments to counteract these warm tones, resulting in a cooler or more neutral shade.
Different Types of Toners
Toners come in various forms, including liquid toners, cream toners, and even toning shampoos and conditioners. Liquid and cream toners are typically mixed with a developer and applied to damp hair. Toning shampoos and conditioners deposit small amounts of pigment with each use, helping to maintain color between salon visits.
The Effects of Toning Dyed Hair
Applying toner to dyed hair can have a range of effects, depending on several crucial variables.
Color Correction
One of the most common reasons for toning dyed hair is to correct unwanted undertones that may have emerged after the initial dye process or after the color has faded. For example, if you’ve dyed your hair blonde and it has become brassy over time, a purple or blue-based toner can neutralize the yellow and orange tones, restoring a cooler, brighter blonde. Similarly, if your brunette hair has developed red tones, a green-based toner can help to balance the color. Color correction is a primary function of toning dyed hair.
Enhancing Existing Color
In some cases, toning can enhance the existing color of dyed hair. If you’re happy with the overall shade but want to add depth or dimension, a toner that’s close to your current color can help to achieve this. For example, a gold toner can add warmth and richness to blonde hair, while an ash toner can create a more muted, sophisticated look.
Changing the Tone
While toner isn’t designed to drastically change hair color, it can significantly alter the tone. If you want to shift your hair from warm to cool or vice versa, a toner can be an effective tool. Just be aware that the change will be subtle, and it’s unlikely to transform dark brown hair into platinum blonde.
The Potential for Unexpected Results
It’s important to be aware that toning dyed hair can sometimes lead to unexpected results, particularly if you’re not familiar with color theory or the specific properties of the toner you’re using. For example, using a toner that’s too strong or applying it for too long can result in overly cool or ashy tones. Similarly, using the wrong toner for your hair color can exacerbate unwanted undertones. Always perform a strand test to assess the impact of the toner before applying it to your entire head.
Damage and Condition of the Hair
The condition of your hair plays a crucial role in how it will respond to toning. If your hair is already damaged or over-processed, it may be more porous, causing the toner to absorb unevenly. This can result in patchy or uneven color. Additionally, toning can be drying, so it’s essential to use a moisturizing conditioner or hair mask after toning to replenish moisture.
Factors Influencing the Outcome
Several factors influence the final outcome when toning dyed hair.
The Existing Hair Color and Undertones
The starting point of your hair color is the most important factor. The toner will react differently depending on whether your hair is blonde, brunette, red, or black, and on the underlying tones that are present. Understanding your hair’s undertones is crucial for selecting the right toner.
The Type of Hair Dye Used Previously
The type of dye previously used also affects the outcome. Hair that has been dyed with permanent dye may be more resistant to toner than hair that has been dyed with semi-permanent dye. This is because permanent dye penetrates deeper into the hair shaft, making it more difficult for toner to penetrate and deposit pigment.
The Specific Toner Used
Each toner contains a unique blend of pigments, and the strength and intensity of those pigments can vary significantly. Some toners are designed for blonde hair, while others are specifically formulated for brunette or red hair. Some toners are more subtle, while others offer more dramatic results. Choosing the right toner for your specific hair color and desired outcome is paramount.
The Developer Volume (if applicable)
Many toners require mixing with a developer, which helps to open the hair cuticle and deposit the toner’s pigments. The volume of the developer determines the level of lift or color change. A lower volume developer (e.g., 10 volume) is typically used for toning, as it provides minimal lift and is less damaging to the hair. A higher volume developer (e.g., 20 volume or higher) may be used for more significant color correction or to lighten the hair slightly.
Processing Time
The amount of time you leave the toner on your hair also impacts the final result. Leaving the toner on for too long can result in overly cool or ashy tones, while not leaving it on long enough may not effectively neutralize unwanted undertones. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for processing time, and closely monitor your hair’s color during the process.
Hair Porosity
Hair porosity refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture and products. High porosity hair has a more open cuticle, making it easier for toner to penetrate and deposit pigment. However, high porosity hair can also absorb toner too quickly, leading to uneven or overly intense color. Low porosity hair has a tightly closed cuticle, making it more difficult for toner to penetrate. This may require a longer processing time or the use of heat to help open the cuticle.
Avoiding Common Mistakes
To ensure a successful toning experience, it’s important to avoid common mistakes.
Not Performing a Strand Test
As mentioned earlier, a strand test is crucial before applying toner to your entire head. This will allow you to assess how the toner will react with your hair color and undertones, and to adjust the processing time or toner strength as needed.
Over-Toning
Over-toning can result in hair that’s overly cool, ashy, or even muddy in color. To avoid this, start with a weaker toner and gradually build up the color as needed. Monitor your hair closely during the processing time and rinse the toner out as soon as you achieve the desired result.
Using the Wrong Toner
Using the wrong toner for your hair color can exacerbate unwanted undertones or create new ones. For example, using a purple toner on orange hair can result in a muddy, brown color. Research the best toner for your specific hair color and desired outcome before applying it.
Ignoring Hair’s Condition
Applying toner to damaged or over-processed hair can lead to uneven color and further damage. Before toning, ensure your hair is in good condition by using moisturizing treatments and avoiding harsh chemicals.
Neglecting Post-Toning Care
Toning can be drying, so it’s important to replenish moisture after the process. Use a moisturizing conditioner or hair mask to hydrate your hair and protect it from further damage. Consider using color-safe shampoos and conditioners to prolong the life of your toned color.
When to Consult a Professional
While it’s possible to tone your hair at home, there are situations where it’s best to consult a professional hairstylist.
If you’re unsure about your hair’s undertones, the best toner to use, or the correct processing time, a stylist can provide expert advice and guidance. They have the knowledge and experience to assess your hair and recommend the appropriate toner and application technique.
If you’re attempting a significant color correction or a drastic change in tone, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. These types of changes can be complex and require specialized skills and products.
If your hair is severely damaged or over-processed, a stylist can assess the condition of your hair and recommend treatments to restore its health before attempting any color services.
Maintaining Your Toned Hair Color
Once you’ve achieved your desired hair color with toner, it’s important to take steps to maintain the results.
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are gentler than regular shampoos and conditioners and won’t strip your hair of its color.
Avoid washing your hair too frequently. Washing your hair less often will help to prolong the life of your toned color. When you do wash your hair, use cool or lukewarm water, as hot water can fade color faster.
Protect your hair from the sun. UV rays can fade hair color and damage the hair shaft. Wear a hat or use a UV-protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
Use a toning shampoo or conditioner once or twice a week to maintain the tone of your hair between toning sessions.
Consider using a hair mask or deep conditioner regularly to keep your hair hydrated and healthy.
Conclusion
Toning dyed hair can be an effective way to correct unwanted undertones, enhance existing color, or change the tone of your hair. However, it’s important to understand the factors that influence the outcome and to avoid common mistakes. By carefully considering your hair color, undertones, the type of toner you’re using, and the condition of your hair, you can achieve beautiful, balanced color that lasts. When in doubt, consult a professional hairstylist for expert advice and guidance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can you use toner on hair that’s already been dyed?
A: Absolutely, you can use toner on hair that has already been dyed. In fact, it’s a common practice to refine the color and neutralize unwanted tones, especially after a dyeing process that didn’t quite achieve the desired result. Toner works best when applied to hair that is already lightened to some degree, whether it’s naturally light or lightened through dye or bleach.
However, it’s important to consider the condition of your hair and the specific type of dye used previously. Applying toner immediately after a harsh dyeing process could potentially damage your hair further. Wait a few days or even a week, providing your hair with deep conditioning treatments in between, to ensure it’s healthy enough to withstand another chemical process. Also, certain permanent dyes might resist toning, so a strand test is always recommended.
Q: Will toner lighten previously dyed hair?
A: Generally, toner is not designed to significantly lighten hair. Its primary function is to neutralize unwanted tones, such as brassiness (yellow or orange hues) or redness. Toner contains a mild developer, typically a low volume like 10 or 20, which is insufficient for lifting the base color of your dyed hair.
If you’re hoping to achieve a noticeably lighter shade, toner alone won’t be effective. You would need to consider using a hair dye with a higher volume developer or opting for bleach, which are both significantly more potent lightening agents. Remember that both options can cause damage, so proceed with caution and consider consulting a professional colorist.
Q: What toner should I use on dyed brown hair to remove red tones?
A: To combat red tones in dyed brown hair, you’ll generally want to use a toner with green undertones. Green is the opposite of red on the color wheel, making it effective in neutralizing unwanted redness. Look for toners specifically formulated to counteract red or warm hues in brown hair.
Before applying any toner, always perform a strand test on a hidden section of your hair to assess how the toner will interact with your existing color. This helps prevent any unwanted surprises and ensures you achieve the desired result. Carefully follow the instructions on the toner packaging and consider consulting with a professional colorist for personalized recommendations.
Q: How long should I leave toner on previously dyed hair?
A: The recommended processing time for toner can vary depending on the specific product and your desired result, but generally it is between 10 and 30 minutes. Always refer to the instructions provided on the toner packaging for the most accurate guidance. Leaving the toner on for too short a time might not effectively neutralize the unwanted tones, while leaving it on for too long could potentially result in over-toning or damage.
Keep a close eye on your hair while the toner is processing. Check the color development periodically, especially if you’re unsure how your hair will react to the toner. If you notice the color reaching your desired shade sooner than the recommended time, rinse the toner out immediately to prevent over-toning.
Q: Can toner damage previously dyed hair?
A: While toner is generally less damaging than bleach or permanent hair dye, it can still potentially cause damage, especially to hair that has already been chemically treated. Toner contains a mild developer, which opens the hair cuticle to deposit the toner pigments. This process, while less aggressive, can still lead to dryness, breakage, or increased porosity if not handled properly.
To minimize the risk of damage, ensure your hair is in good condition before applying toner. Use deep conditioning treatments regularly leading up to the toning session. After toning, use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, and consider incorporating leave-in conditioners or hair oils to replenish moisture and protect your hair from further damage.
Q: Can I use purple shampoo instead of toner on dyed hair?
A: Purple shampoo can be a helpful tool for maintaining and enhancing the color of dyed hair, particularly blonde or lightened shades. It contains purple pigments that help neutralize yellow or brassy tones, keeping your hair looking bright and fresh. It works by depositing small amounts of purple dye onto the hair shaft, counteracting the unwanted yellow hues.
However, purple shampoo is not a direct replacement for toner. Toner is a more potent and targeted solution for correcting specific color issues, while purple shampoo is primarily for maintenance. If you’re dealing with significant brassiness or need to adjust the overall tone of your hair, toner is a more effective option. Purple shampoo is best used as a supplement to help prolong the effects of toning or dyeing.
Q: How often can I use toner on my already dyed hair?
A: The frequency of toner application depends on factors like how quickly your color fades, the porosity of your hair, and the type of toner you’re using. Generally, you should avoid toning your hair too frequently to prevent over-processing and potential damage. Toning every 4-6 weeks is a common guideline for maintaining color.
Pay attention to the condition of your hair. If you notice signs of dryness, breakage, or increased sensitivity, reduce the frequency of toning or opt for gentler toners. Consider using color-depositing conditioners or masks in between toning sessions to help maintain your desired color and minimize the need for frequent toning.