Curly hair is a beautiful canvas, offering a unique texture and dimension that straight hair simply can’t replicate. But when it comes to highlights, the rules change slightly. What works for straight hair might not always translate seamlessly to curls. Getting the perfect highlighted look for your curls requires understanding your curl pattern, hair health, and the types of highlighting techniques that complement your natural texture. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know to achieve stunning, head-turning highlights for your curly locks.
Understanding Your Curl Type and Hair Health
Before even considering highlights, it’s crucial to understand your curl pattern and assess your hair’s overall health. Curls range from loose waves to tight coils, each with its own unique characteristics and needs.
Identifying Your Curl Pattern
Curl patterns are generally categorized from 2A (loose waves) to 4C (tightest coils). Knowing your curl type helps determine how the highlights will appear and distribute throughout your hair. For example, loose waves (2A-2C) can handle chunkier highlights, while tighter curls (3A-4C) often benefit from finer, more blended highlights.
It is also very important to note the density of your hair as it will impact how the highlights show up. Someone with low density hair will likely benefit from fewer highlights, while someone with high density hair may want more highlights to make them pop.
Assessing Your Hair’s Health
Highlighting involves bleaching, which can be damaging, especially for already fragile curly hair. Assess your hair’s moisture levels, elasticity, and porosity. Dry, brittle, or damaged hair needs extra TLC before and after highlighting. Consider a protein treatment or deep conditioning mask to strengthen your strands beforehand. Healthy hair holds color better and is less prone to breakage.
Highlighting Techniques for Curly Hair
Several highlighting techniques work well on curly hair, each offering a different effect and level of maintenance. The key is to choose a technique that complements your curl pattern and lifestyle.
Balayage: The Go-To for Natural-Looking Highlights
Balayage is a freehand painting technique that creates soft, natural-looking highlights. It’s particularly flattering on curly hair because it mimics the way the sun naturally lightens your hair. The highlights are typically focused on the mid-lengths and ends, creating a dimensional effect without harsh lines of demarcation. This means less noticeable regrowth and lower maintenance. Because balayage is painted on, the colorist can specifically place highlights in areas where the curl naturally catches light.
Balayage requires a skilled colorist who understands how curls fall and how the highlights will look when the hair is dry and styled. It’s an excellent option for those seeking a subtle, sun-kissed look.
Foilyage: Intensifying Balayage
Foilyage is a variation of balayage where the painted sections are wrapped in foil. This intensifies the lightening process, making it suitable for those with darker hair or who want more dramatic highlights than traditional balayage can provide. Foilyage offers more control over the placement and intensity of the highlights. It’s a great choice for creating dimension and brightness throughout the hair. As with balayage, a skilled colorist is essential for achieving a natural and seamless blend.
Traditional Foil Highlights: Precision and Control
Traditional foil highlights involve sectioning the hair and applying bleach to individual strands wrapped in foil. This method offers precision and control, allowing for even distribution of highlights from root to tip. However, it can create a more uniform and less natural look compared to balayage or foilyage.
Foil highlights are best suited for those who want a more defined and structured highlighted look. They can also be effective for covering gray hair or achieving a significant color change. However, be aware that foil highlights can sometimes result in a harsher line of demarcation as the hair grows out, requiring more frequent touch-ups.
Babylights: Subtlety and Softness
Babylights are very fine, delicate highlights that mimic the natural highlights seen in children’s hair. They are applied using a fine weave technique and are perfect for adding subtle dimension and brightness to curly hair. Babylights are incredibly low-maintenance and blend seamlessly with your natural hair color. They create a soft, diffused effect that enhances your curls without looking overly highlighted. This is a great option for those who are new to highlights or want a very natural look.
Ribbon Highlights: Defining Curl Clumps
Ribbon highlights are strategically placed to enhance individual curl clumps, creating definition and movement. This technique involves highlighting wider sections of hair that naturally clump together, accentuating the shape and texture of your curls. Ribbon highlights are particularly effective for adding dimension and making your curls look more voluminous. They can be customized to suit your curl pattern and desired level of brightness.
Chunky Highlights: Bold and Statement-Making
Chunky highlights, also known as ’90s highlights, involve highlighting larger sections of hair. While they can be a bold and stylish choice, they require careful consideration on curly hair. Chunky highlights can sometimes disrupt the natural flow of your curls and create a less blended look. If you opt for chunky highlights, ensure they are strategically placed to complement your curl pattern and face shape. This technique works best on looser curl patterns (2A-3A) where the highlights can be more easily blended.
Choosing the Right Highlight Color
The color of your highlights should complement your skin tone and natural hair color. Consider whether you want warm, cool, or neutral tones.
Warm Tones: Golden and Honey Hues
Warm-toned highlights, such as golden blonde, honey, and caramel, add warmth and radiance to your complexion. They are particularly flattering on those with warm skin tones. Warm highlights can also enhance the richness and depth of your natural hair color. However, be mindful that warm tones can sometimes turn brassy, so it’s important to use color-safe shampoo and toning products to maintain their vibrancy.
Cool Tones: Ash and Platinum Blondes
Cool-toned highlights, such as ash blonde, platinum, and icy blonde, create a sophisticated and modern look. They are best suited for those with cool skin tones. Cool highlights can also help to neutralize any unwanted warmth in your hair. However, achieving cool tones often requires more bleaching, which can be damaging to curly hair. It’s essential to work with a skilled colorist who can minimize damage and maintain the integrity of your curls.
Neutral Tones: Balanced and Versatile
Neutral-toned highlights, such as beige blonde and sand, offer a balanced and versatile option. They complement a wide range of skin tones and hair colors. Neutral highlights create a soft, natural-looking effect that enhances your curls without being too warm or too cool. They are a great choice for those who want a subtle and understated highlighted look.
Considering Your Base Color
It’s important to consider your starting hair color when choosing the shade for your highlights. For example, if you have dark brown hair, opting for very light blonde highlights could be too harsh and damaging. Instead, consider caramel or light brown highlights for a more natural transition. If you have lighter brown or blonde hair, you have more flexibility with the shade of your highlights.
Protecting Your Curls After Highlighting
Highlighting can be damaging, so it’s essential to take extra care of your curls after the process.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your routine to replenish moisture and strengthen your hair. Look for products that contain ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and argan oil. Deep condition your hair at least once a week, or more often if needed.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments help to repair and strengthen damaged hair. However, be careful not to overuse them, as too much protein can make your hair brittle. Use a protein treatment every few weeks, or as needed, to maintain the strength and elasticity of your curls.
Color-Safe Shampoos and Conditioners
Use shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle and won’t strip your hair of its color or moisture. Avoid sulfates, parabens, and other harsh ingredients that can damage your curls.
Limit Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage highlighted curly hair. If possible, avoid using heat tools altogether. If you must use heat, use a heat protectant spray and use the lowest possible setting. Air drying or using a diffuser on a low setting are gentler alternatives.
Regular Trims
Regular trims are essential for removing split ends and preventing breakage. Trim your hair every 6-8 weeks to maintain its health and shape.
Finding the Right Colorist
Choosing the right colorist is crucial for achieving beautiful, healthy highlights on curly hair. Look for a colorist who specializes in curly hair and has experience with highlighting techniques.
Consultation is Key
Schedule a consultation with the colorist to discuss your desired look and assess your hair’s health. Bring photos of highlights you like and be prepared to answer questions about your hair care routine. A good colorist will listen to your needs and provide honest advice about what is achievable and sustainable for your hair.
Check Their Portfolio
Ask to see examples of the colorist’s work on curly hair. This will give you a better idea of their skill and style. Pay attention to the blend of the highlights, the overall dimension, and the health of the hair.
Ask About Products
Inquire about the products the colorist uses. Opt for salons that use high-quality, low-ammonia hair color and offer bond-building treatments like Olaplex or Redken pH-Bonder to minimize damage during the highlighting process.
Consider the Cost
Highlighting curly hair can be a significant investment. Prices vary depending on the colorist’s experience, the technique used, and the length and thickness of your hair. Be prepared to pay more for a skilled colorist who can achieve the results you want while maintaining the health of your curls. Don’t compromise quality for a lower price, as this can result in damaged hair and a disappointing outcome.
By understanding your curl type, choosing the right highlighting technique and color, and taking extra care of your hair after the process, you can achieve stunning, head-turning highlights that enhance your natural beauty. The key is to work with a skilled colorist who understands curly hair and can help you create a customized look that suits your individual style.
Maintaining Your Highlights
Once you’ve achieved your desired highlights, proper maintenance is essential to keep them looking their best.
Toning Treatments
Toning treatments can help to maintain the color and vibrancy of your highlights, preventing them from turning brassy or dull. Use a purple shampoo or conditioner once or twice a week to neutralize yellow tones and keep your blonde highlights bright.
Gloss Treatments
Gloss treatments add shine and smoothness to your hair, enhancing the overall look of your highlights. They can also help to seal the cuticle and protect your hair from damage. Get a gloss treatment at the salon every few months to keep your highlights looking fresh and healthy.
Hydrating Products
Continued hydration is essential for highlighted curly hair. Use a leave-in conditioner and a curl cream to keep your curls moisturized and defined. Avoid products that contain alcohol, as they can dry out your hair.
What highlighting techniques work best for curly hair, and why?
Balayage and foilayage are generally considered the best highlighting techniques for curly hair. Balayage, a freehand painting technique, allows for a natural, blended look that enhances the curl pattern without harsh lines. Foilayage combines balayage with the strategic use of foils to amplify the lightening effect and achieve brighter, more dimensional highlights.
Both of these techniques allow the stylist to place highlights strategically to complement the natural texture and movement of the curls. They create a softer, more diffused color that grows out gracefully, minimizing the need for frequent touch-ups which can be damaging to delicate curls.
How can I choose the right highlight color for my curly hair?
The best highlight color for your curly hair depends heavily on your base hair color and skin tone. For darker hair, caramel, bronze, and warm brown tones work beautifully, adding warmth and dimension. If you have lighter hair, honey blonde, golden blonde, and even subtle strawberry blonde highlights can create a sun-kissed effect.
Consider your skin’s undertones when choosing a shade. Warm skin tones pair well with golden and copper highlights, while cool skin tones are flattered by ash blonde or cool brown highlights. Consulting with a colorist who specializes in curly hair is crucial for selecting the perfect shade that complements your features and avoids a brassy or unnatural look.
What are some potential downsides of highlighting curly hair?
One of the main downsides of highlighting curly hair is the potential for damage. The lightening process can weaken the hair’s protein structure, leading to dryness, breakage, and frizz. Curly hair is naturally more prone to dryness, so highlighting can exacerbate this issue if not done carefully.
Furthermore, improper highlighting techniques or the use of harsh chemicals can disrupt the curl pattern, causing it to loosen or become uneven. Regular deep conditioning treatments and the use of protein-rich products are essential to maintain the health and integrity of the curls after highlighting.
How often should I get my curly hair highlighted to minimize damage?
The frequency of highlighting curly hair depends on the technique used and the desired level of lightness. However, spacing out highlighting sessions is crucial to minimizing damage. Aim for highlighting every 3-4 months, or even longer if possible.
Consider opting for partial highlights or root melts to blend new growth without completely re-highlighting the entire head of hair. This approach reduces the amount of chemical processing and helps maintain the overall health and strength of your curls.
What aftercare products and routines are essential for highlighted curly hair?
Aftercare is paramount for maintaining the health and vibrancy of highlighted curly hair. Invest in sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners designed for color-treated hair. These gentle formulas will cleanse the hair without stripping away moisture or fading the color.
Incorporate weekly deep conditioning treatments or hair masks to replenish moisture and repair damage caused by the highlighting process. Look for products containing ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and keratin to nourish and strengthen the curls.
Can highlighting affect my curl pattern, and if so, how can I prevent this?
Yes, highlighting can potentially alter your curl pattern, especially if the process is overly aggressive or poorly executed. The chemicals used in highlighting can weaken the hair’s structure, leading to a looser or less defined curl. Excessive bleaching can even cause heat damage and permanent curl pattern disruption.
To prevent this, prioritize hydration and protein treatments. Use protein-rich products to rebuild the hair’s protein structure and help maintain curl definition. Also, be sure your stylist uses a low volume developer and avoids overlapping bleach on previously highlighted hair.
Is it possible to highlight curly hair at home, or should I always go to a professional?
While DIY highlighting kits are available, it’s generally recommended to have curly hair highlighted by a professional colorist who specializes in curly hair. Curly hair is inherently more delicate and requires a specific approach to highlighting to avoid damage and maintain curl definition.
A professional colorist can assess your hair’s condition, choose the appropriate products and techniques, and strategically place highlights to complement your curl pattern. Trying to highlight curly hair at home can result in uneven color, damage, and an undesirable outcome.